Footwear glossary

The front and bottom of the shoe

Vamp: This is the upper part that covers the front of the foot, from the toes to the instep area.

Function: It protects the front of the foot, maintains its overall shape, and provides the necessary flexibility for the foot to bend when walking.

Moc-toe seam (or vamp seam): This is the characteristic "U"-shaped seam on the upper part of the shoe, connecting the vamp to the upper leather piece.

Function: Beyond its aesthetic role, which gives the moccasin its identity, it allows for creating volume for the toes and offers great flexibility.

Welt: This is a thin strip of leather sewn around the outline of the shoe. It connects the upper, the insole, and the outsole (typical of Goodyear or Norwegian constructions).

Function: It ensures the shoe's durability and waterproofing. It also allows for easy resoleing of the footwear when worn out.

Outsole: This is the bottom layer of the shoe that is in direct contact with the ground.

Function: It protects the foot from uneven terrain, absorbs impacts, and provides the necessary grip to prevent slipping.

The upper and sides

Tongue: This is the leather piece that extends the vamp over the instep. In this model (like a penny loafer), it often passes under the saddle (the transverse leather strap).

Function: It protects the instep from rubbing and offers elasticity to facilitate donning, as the loafer has no laces.

Quarters: These are the two side parts (left and right) of the shoe that start from the vamp and meet at the back of the heel.

Function: They wrap around the sides of the foot and hold the back of the shoe firmly in place.

Collar (or Topline): This is the upper edge of the shoe that surrounds the ankle and the instep.

Function: It provides a clean finish and prevents the raw edge of the leather from rubbing and hurting the skin when walking.

The back and heel

Heel Counter Lining: This is the interior lining located at the back, at the height of the heel. It is often made of reverse leather or suede.

Function: It slightly "grips" the sock to prevent the heel from slipping out of the shoe when walking and prevents the appearance of blisters.

Heel counter: This is a rigid piece (often invisible because it is inserted between the lining and the outer leather) located at the back of the heel.

Function: It keeps the heel firmly aligned, prevents the leather from collapsing at the back over time, and guides the foot.

Heel: This is the solid block attached under the back of the shoe.

Function: It raises the back of the foot to respect the natural arch, balances posture, and cushions the impact of each step.

Top lift: This is the last layer of the heel, the one that touches the ground. It often includes a rubber insert.

Function: It is the quintessential wear part. It is designed to be non-slip, abrasion-resistant, and, most importantly, easy to replace at a cobbler.

Shank: This is the narrow part of the sole located under the arch of the foot, between the heel and the front outsole.